The North Coast 500 (NC500) is Scotland’s answer to Route 66, a spectacular 516-mile (830 km) scenic route that loops around the northern coast of the Highlands, starting and ending at Inverness Castle. Widely regarded as one of the world’s greatest road trips, the route showcases the very best of Scottish landscapes, from the white sandy beaches of the north coast and the rugged mountains of the west to the historic castles of the east. This guide provides everything you need to plan a successful trip, including detailed itinerary options, driving advice for single-track roads, accommodation costs, and the best time to visit to avoid the infamous midges. Whether you are tackling the infamous Bealach na Ba pass in a sports car or exploring the coastline in a campervan, the NC500 offers an unforgettable adventure through some of Europe’s last great wildernesses.
What is the NC500?
The North Coast 500 was launched in 2015 by the North Highland Initiative to boost tourism in the remote northern Highlands. It has since become a global phenomenon, attracting thousands of visitors annually to experience its breathtaking scenery and Highland hospitality.
The official route runs for 516 miles, but many travelers add detours to explore hidden gems. It typically follows the main coastal roads: the A9 up the east coast, the A836 across the north, and the A832 and A896 down the dramatic west coast. While the route can be driven in a long weekend, a minimum of 5 to 7 days is recommended to truly appreciate the sights and navigate the slower, winding roads safely.
The Route: Inverness to John O’Groats (East Coast)
The journey usually begins in Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, heading north along the A9. This section is defined by dramatic coastlines, charming fishing villages, and historic distilleries.
The Black Isle and Easter Ross
Just north of Inverness lies the Black Isle, a peninsula famous for its dolphin watching at Chanonry Point. It is not technically on the main A9 but is a worthy detour. Further north, the route passes the Glenmorangie Distillery in Tain, a pilgrimage site for whisky lovers, offering tours and tastings of their famous single malt.
Dunrobin Castle
A highlight of the east coast is Dunrobin Castle near Golspie. With its conical spires and French-influenced architecture, it resembles a fairytale chateau more than a traditional Scottish fortress. It is the ancestral home of the Earls of Sutherland and features magnificent gardens inspired by the Palace of Versailles, along with daily falconry displays that are a hit with families.
The Whaligoe Steps
South of Wick, the Whaligoe Steps are a hidden historical gem. This man-made stairway of 330 steps descends a sheer cliff face to a natural harbor that was once a bustling herring station. It is a steep climb back up, but the dramatic views of the sea stacks and cliffs are unmatched.
The Northern Edge: John O’Groats to Durness
Turning west at John O’Groats, the route transforms into a journey along the wild northern frontier of the British mainland.
John O’Groats and Duncansby Head
While John O’Groats is famous as the “end of the road,” the nearby Duncansby Head is the true northeastern tip of the mainland. A short walk from the lighthouse reveals the Duncansby Stacks, massive jagged rock formations rising from the ocean. It is a prime spot for seabird watching, with puffins often visible during the spring and summer months.
Smoo Cave
Located near Durness, Smoo Cave is a spectacular sea cave set into the limestone cliffs. It boasts one of the largest entrances of any sea cave in Britain and features a dramatic 20-meter waterfall inside. Visitors can take boat tours into the deeper chambers to learn about the cave’s geology and local legends.
Balnakeil Beach
The north coast is famous for its Caribbean-style beaches, and Balnakeil is among the best. With its wide expanse of white sand and turquoise waters, it looks tropical on a sunny day. Nearby is the Balnakeil Craft Village, home to local artists and the famous Cocoa Mountain chocolatier, known for serving the “best hot chocolate in the world.”
The Wild West: Durness to Applecross
The west coast section is widely considered the most scenic part of the NC500. The roads become narrower, the mountains higher, and the scenery more rugged.
Kylesku Bridge
This curved, concrete box-girder bridge is an architectural icon of the route. Spanning Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin, it replaced a ferry service in 1984. The car park at the north end offers a perfect vantage point for photos of the bridge set against the backdrop of Quinag mountain.
Ullapool
Ullapool is the main town on the west coast section and a vital hub for fuel and supplies. It is a picturesque white-washed fishing port designed by Thomas Telford. From here, ferries depart for Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides. It has a great selection of seafood restaurants, pubs, and campsites, making it a popular overnight stop.
Bealach na Ba and Applecross
The Bealach na Ba (Pass of the Cattle) is the most famous and challenging road on the NC500. It is a single-track road with hairpin bends and gradients approaching 20%, rising to 2,053 feet. It offers some of the greatest views in Scotland across to the Isle of Skye. Note that this road is not suitable for large motorhomes, caravans, or inexperienced drivers; there is a safer, low-level alternative route around the coast.
Practical Information and Planning
A successful NC500 trip requires careful planning, especially regarding accommodation and driving etiquette.
Transport and Vehicles
- Car: A reliable car is essential. Smaller cars are easier to maneuver on single-track roads and passing places.
- Campervan: Extremely popular, but book campsites months in advance. Wild camping is legal but must be done responsibly (“Leave No Trace”).
- Motorbike: The route is a favorite for bikers due to the winding roads and scenery.
- Public Transport: While trains and buses serve parts of the route (like the Far North Line), doing the full loop by public transport is difficult and time-consuming.
Costs and Budget
- Fuel: Fuel stations can be scarce in remote areas. Fill up whenever you see a station. Prices in remote Highlands are generally higher than the UK average.
- Accommodation: Hotels range from £100-£300+ per night. B&Bs are around £80-£120. Campsites charge £20-£35 per pitch.
- Food: Eating out can be expensive. Budget £15-£25 for a main meal in a pub. Supermarkets are limited to larger towns like Wick, Thurso, and Ullapool.
Best Time to Visit
- May and September: Often considered the best months. The weather is generally milder, roads are quieter than peak summer, and midges are less active.
- June to August: Peak season. Weather is warmest, days are longest (up to 18 hours daylight), but accommodation is fully booked and roads can be congested. Midges are prevalent.
- Winter: Only for experienced drivers. Many attractions and campsites close, and daylight is limited to 6-7 hours. Snow and ice can make mountain passes like Bealach na Ba impassable.
Driving on Single Track Roads
A significant portion of the NC500, particularly on the west coast, consists of single-track roads. Knowing how to drive them is a safety necessity.
- Passing Places: These are diamond-shaped widenings of the road. Use them to let oncoming traffic pass or to let faster traffic behind you overtake.
- Don’t Park in Passing Places: Never park in a passing place to take photos. It blocks the road and endangers other drivers.
- Look Ahead: Always scan the road ahead for oncoming vehicles and be prepared to stop.
- Reversing: You may need to reverse into a passing place if you meet a vehicle and the passing place is behind you.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to drive the NC500? Most people take 5 to 7 days to drive the route comfortably. Trying to do it in less than 3 days means spending almost all your time driving without stopping to see the sights.
Is the NC500 suitable for motorhomes? Yes, but large motorhomes should avoid the Bealach na Ba pass and the B869 Drumbeg road. Stick to the main alternative routes. Booking campsites in advance is essential as roadside parking is restricted in many areas.
What is the best direction to drive the NC500? The route can be driven clockwise or anti-clockwise. Anti-clockwise(up the east coast first) is popular because the scenery gets progressively more dramatic, saving the spectacular west coast for the second half of the trip.
Are midges a problem on the NC500? Yes, especially on the west coast during summer (June to August). They are tiny biting insects that swarm in still, humid conditions. Bring “Smidge” repellent and a midge net if you plan to hike or camp.
Do I need to book accommodation in advance? Absolutely. In peak season (May-September), hotels and campsites can be fully booked months in advance. “Winging it” is risky and may leave you sleeping in your car.
Is the NC500 dangerous? The roads can be challenging, with narrow lanes, blind summits, and wandering livestock (sheep and deer). However, if driven carefully and at appropriate speeds, it is safe. Fatigue is a common risk, so take regular breaks.
Where does the NC500 start and finish? The official start and finish point is Inverness Castle. There is a marker stone outside the castle where visitors often take photos to bookend their trip.
Can I do the NC500 in an electric car? Yes. The charging infrastructure has improved significantly. There are rapid chargers in most main towns (Inverness, Ullapool, Thurso) and many hotels now offer EV charging points. Planning is still required for longer remote stretches.
Is wild camping allowed on the NC500? Wild camping is legal in Scotland under the Land Reform Act, but it applies to tents only and must be done responsibly (away from roads/houses, leave no trace). It does not apply to motorized vehicles (campervans/motorhomes), which should use campsites or designated permit areas.
What are the must-see castles on the route? Dunrobin Castle (East), Castle of Mey (North – Queen Mother’s home), and Ardvreck Castle (West – ruin) are the top historic sites. Eilean Donan Castle is slightly off-route but a very popular detour near the start/end of the west coast section.
Is there mobile phone signal on the NC500? Signal is generally good in towns but can be patchy or non-existent in remote areas of the west and north coasts. Downloading offline maps (Google Maps) before you leave is highly recommended.
What is the “Bealach na Ba”? It is a famous mountain pass on the Applecross peninsula. It rises to over 2,000 feet with Alpine-style hairpin bends. It offers incredible views but is challenging for inexperienced drivers and large vehicles.
Are there plenty of petrol stations? In the populated east, yes. On the west and north coasts, stations can be 30-50 miles apart and may close early (or be closed on Sundays). Keep your tank at least half full to avoid anxiety.
Can I take my dog on the NC500? Yes, Scotland is very dog-friendly. Most beaches and hiking trails are open to dogs. Many pubs and hotels also welcome pets, though you should check in advance.
What is the best section of the NC500? Opinions vary, but the West Coast (from Ullapool to Applecross) is widely considered the most visually stunning due to its dramatic mountains, lochs, and white sandy beaches.
